Monster Spyder reprogramming is superior to any competitors. Power and torque is increased all over.
On the big 1330cc:
- Power is increased right off idle to redline. Taking rear wheel horsepower from the low 90’s to over 115hp.
- Torque is amplified from near 90 stock to almost 105 ft lbs.
We get the factory rated engine hp at the rear wheels. Which is a 20% gain!!!
On stage 2,
there is more torque from 2000rpm up then there is at the very peak of stock output.
- is for everybody. A budget priced improvement over any stock setup. All around better performance.
- is where everything is optimized. Its a little louder overall. Also tightens octane tolerances.
Stage 2 adds more power from off idle to redline over the stage 2.
With the most notable attributes of:
- Increased Torque from idle to 4500rpm.
- Increased power output from 7000-8800 rpm. Optimized torque below 7000.
The ecu mapping is much different:
- remapped fuel, throttle, ignition timing, limits and thresholds for AFR, Exhaust temperatures
- remapped torque limiting logic, temperature limiting logic, timing and knock limiting logic
- open airbox for cold airflow. This works for both power production and detonation prevention.
- lower cooling fan temperatures keep engine in a happier state.
- decreased engine safety limiting (allowed by cooler engine temps and air temps)
- revised knock sensor logic (allowed by special tuning, cooler engine temp and air temps)
Please note that you MUST send in airbox lid (air filter lid) with ecu for small modifications.
It is imperative that stage 1 or stage 2 tuning along with specific air box or inlet modification never be mixed up or used beyond their intended development. IE: You can't run stage 2 airbox modifications with stage 1 ecu tuning. And you cant run stage 2 tuning without the proper air inlet modifications.
The dynamic tuning of the ecu allows the user the use of whatever exhaust configuration. Stock, Cat delete, free flow muffler etc in any combination. However, it is recommended to have either a cat delete or free flow muffler with the stage 2. Or both. A well flowing exhaust both works better for power and just as importantly retains less heat around the bike and engine compartment.
Stage 1 is a premium fuel 91 octane tuning. But users can use 87 octane in an emergency and follow safe engine driving habits with the fuel. (keep rpm up, use low gears, don't lug engine, stay below half throttle) Higher octane fuel can be easily used, use what works best.
Stage 2 is a premium fuel 91+ octane tuning only. NEVER use 87 octane.
Through the use of advanced logic, temperature sensors, knock sensors, oxygen sensors and torque calculations, power will be limited without ideal conditions. The use of poor fuel or exhaust configuration, or high temperatures will have power limited. Just because something works, doesn't mean its ok or ideal. Let the engine breath and feed it the proper fuel. And you will be rewarded.